by Saskia Lucas

May 1, 2010

Saskia Lucas

Major Skinner

Saskia Lucas heads out of town in search of a change of scenery along California’s breathtaking Highway 1.

Insider Tips for a Coast Ride North

By Saskia Lucas

A weekend jaunt from the Bay Area to Santa Cruz is an ideal getaway for the adventuring city cyclist in need of a change of scenery and a breath of fresh air.

It’s easy to get to this surfside town without a car. One option is to ride along the coast south from San Francisco. Alternately, hop aboard Amtrak in Emeryville – bikes allowed – to San Jose. From there, the Highway 17 Express bus will get you directly to downtown Santa Cruz. Bring snacks and your Momentum Magazine and enjoy the relaxed journey. For inexpensive and off-beat accommodations, stay at the historic Carmelita Cottages Youth Hostel on Beach Hill, just a Frisbee toss away from the Santa Cruz Boardwalk, Municipal Wharf and beaches.

My top recommendation to a weekend cycling visitor is to ride the scenic coastline north of Santa Cruz along Highway 1 – a popular route among local bicyclists. Highway 1 has wide shoulders much of the way, making it easy to chat with a ride buddy, and I appreciate the extra space between me and fast moving cars. Be sure to get an early start to avoid the headwinds that generally pick up in the late morning.

On the way out of town, take West Cliff Drive, a winding two-lane road along the coast with spectacular vistas of the Monterey Bay. As you ride, watch the surf arching back from cliff faces, curving strands of brown pelicans grazing the water with their wing tips and, if you’re lucky, a mother and baby whale swimming in the distance. For a relaxed cruise with front-row views, take the multi-use path, which is shared with walkers, dogs, kids and surfboards. Stop at the Santa Cruz Lighthouse to watch surfers ride the waves off the point at the famous Steamer’s Lane.

As you pedal north past farmland, state parks and lush drainages, a vast expanse of wide-open sky and sea surrounds you. I remind myself regularly to look up from the road and take in the breathtaking views.

A popular destination is the small coastal town of Davenport, 11 miles north of Santa Cruz. The Whale City Bakery is a great stop for tasty calories, caffeine and a bathroom break. They make mean huevos rancheros, topped with spicy fresh salsa and queso fresco. If you’re in a sweet mood, their fluffy pancakes and pastries are delicious.

Another option is to continue about a half-mile beyond Davenport to the Swanton Berry Farm stand. Wander into the converted barn and perhaps you will find an employee, but chances are good you will be on your own. Not to worry, they’ve got an old-fashioned honor-system till to pay for your fresh berries, homemade pies, coffee and more. There are picnic benches outside to enjoy your treats with a view.

For a longer ride, continue from the farm stand on Swanton Road as it wanders inland and back to Highway 1 again further north, and then loop back south. This route winds back through a pastoral valley, climbs steeply to a ridge-top with spectacular ocean views – a popular resting point – and then descends back to the coast. If you opt for a shorter ride, turn back towards Santa Cruz from the farm stand with fresh berry lips, full bellies and smiles.

The final stop is the Westside Farmer’s Market (Saturdays only), just off Highway 1, as you come back to town. There, you’ll discover live music, a tasty selection of prepared food vendors and tables to sit at and enjoy. I leave with my back jersey pockets bulging with as much fresh local goodness as I can fit. Sounds fun? Come visit soon!

amtrak.com · hi-santacruz.org

lighthousefriends.com/light.asp?ID=87

swantonberryfarm.com

santacruzfarmersmarket.org

by Saskia Lucas

May 1, 2010

Latest Comments

  • Going further north to Costanoa

    Saskia,
    I agree - the ride from SC to Davenport is sweet, especially the part on the bike path to Wilder Ranch. We rode to Costanoa KOA just north of Ano Nuevo and had GREAT lunches in their dining hall. That makes the trip from the west side of SC around 48 miles round trip - a nice day's outing.

    Posted by Janet Fogel June 25, 2010 17:37:54

  • Devil's Slide

    Devil's Slide southbound is OK for cyclists. There are a couple of narrow-shoulder sections on the uphill, but as long as you take the lane on the downhill (mandatory!) it's acceptable.

    Northbound, however, is a different story. You end up climbing a long section of road that has concrete barriers immediately to each side of the single climbing lane. Bikes are going 5mph, if that; cars are traveling much faster, slowing as little as possible before making unsafe passes around the bicyclists. (It would be hard to make a safe pass here, as there is nowhere to go; car drivers are forced to move past bicyclists with very little clearance because of the concrete barriers.)

    The bypass (Old San Pedro Mtn Rd, "Planet of the Apes" trail) is a neat way to avoid Devil's Slide entirely, at the cost of climbing most of Montara Mountain on a combination of pavement, broken-up pavement, dirt, and rock trails. Fun stuff if your bike can take it.

    After the new Devil's Slide tunnel is complete in 2012 or so, cars will be using that. The current roadway is planned to be turned into a multi-use trail, no cars allowed! More information on the project is here:
    http://www.dot.ca.gov/dist4/dslide/

    Posted by Grego May 24, 2010 17:01:15

  • Cycling from SF to SC

    Hi,

    I understand that this article is geared more towards beginner cyclists but I'm disappointed that it doesn't address those of us who want to cycle the entire way from SF to Santa Cruz.

    From my experience, Route 1 is extremely dangerous in the Devil's Slide area south of SF and should be avoided by cyclists. Many cyclists get around this section by taking the "Planet of the Apes" trail. This trail follows the old Route 1. It's full of rough pavement and some amazing views (I did it on my touring bike and a friend did it on his road bike and we had no issues though did walk a small 50-foot section). The trail puts you back onto Route 1 at Pacifica and from there down south to Santa Cruz the road has a large, safe shoulder for cycing.

    Posted by Sara May 06, 2010 06:26:06

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