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Wooden Bike Fenders Laminations LeadLaminations ready for gluing.
2 of 3
Fnished Wooden FendersThe finished fenders.
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The JigThe jig.
Wooden Bike Fenders Laminations Lead
Fnished Wooden Fenders
By Erik Neumann
See related link for first part of the story.
Mounting metal brackets that connect your fenders to wire struts is the final step, of which there are several options. 1) Probably the easiest, method is to pirate some brackets from an existing plastic fender, flatten them so they’ll work on your wood surface and drill holes in your new fender to attach them. 2) Upon emailing the above mentioned fender manufacturers and Bilenky Cycle Works, fender hardware can be purchased from them in the $25 range for brackets, screws and struts. 3) If you’re determined to be self-sufficient, read on and make your own.
What you’ll need:
A piece of aluminum 1/2 wide by 1/16th inch thick (various lengths available)
Power drill with 1/4 and 3/16 inch bits
Metal file (and grinder if possible)
3/16 inch binding posts (10)
An existing fender with brackets, to really understand what you’re doing
Aluminum stock is available at most hardware stores. Using a hacksaw cut a piece of aluminum 4 ¼ inches long. Using your metal file (and grinder if available), round the corners of your strap, so that they’re clean and no longer sharp. Draw a center line, width-wise.
You’ll need to drill 6 holes in your bracket for screws and struts. Mark the location of six holes on your metal stock:
Mark holes ¼ inch in from either end
Mark holes ½ inch on either side of center line
Mark holes 1 inch on either side of center line.
Use a hammer and nail to tap an indentation on these marks. It will help start the holes.
Hold the aluminum stock in place with a clamp or vice and drill out your holes. The four inner most holes should be drilled with a 3/16 inch bit. Drill the outer two holes with a ¼ inch bit. File down any metal burrs that were created.
Using a vice, bend the metal just outside of the four middle holes, forming two 90 degree corners. Your bracket should resemble a U-shape with square corners. You should have two holes in the middle for attachment to your fender, two near the corners for struts, and two more on the ends for the strut screws.
Use an existing fender to determine where the brackets should be mounted. Once you’ve determined the placement, hold the bracket on your wood fender and mark where you’ll drill through the wood to mount it. Remove the bracket and drill through your fender with a 3/16 inch drill bit. Use 3/16th inch long binding posts (a type of screw) to fasten the bracket to your fender.
To make the L-shaped bracket that connects to your bike’s fork and seat stays, cut another piece of aluminum 3 inches long. Round the corners. Starting on one side, mark holes at 3/8, 1, and 2 ½ inches and drill them out with a 3/16 bit. Using a vice, make a 90 degree bend at the middle of the aluminum. The side with two holes will mount to your fender, the side with one hole on your bike frame.
Finally, struts and strut screws (the wires that hold your fender on your bike) can be purchased at most used bike shops. You’ll need four of each for a rear fender and two per front fender. Make sure to get the longest ones they have as flat fenders require longer struts.