by Anne Mathews

September 30, 2011

The Right Way to Lock Your Bike

Illustration By Thomas James

The Right Way to Lock Your Bike

By Anne Mathews

Illustrator: Thomas James

A man sauntered into our neighborhood bike shop and examined the display of locks. He hefted the most impressive one, a massive, heavy chain, looked at the price tag and frowned. "I don't know if I can afford it," he said to the shop owner.

"Can you afford to have your bike stolen?" the owner replied.

This is, in a nutshell, the basic logic of bike security. Bikes are light and easily transported, convenient qualities not only for bike owners, but also for bike thieves. So it's worth taking a few simple steps to keep your ride locked down when you aren't around.

Once you've decided to secure your bike, you'll need a lock. There are several good options out there, depending on your needs.

Lock in hand, you'll next need to decide what to lock to. In many cities, entire neighborhoods lack dedicated bike parking. When racks or locking posts aren't handy, streetlamps are a decent option - as are sturdy street signs over six-feet-tall, or short parking meters with enough bulk at the top to frustrate thieves. Avoid locking to flimsy trees, bushes or removable poles. When locking to other infrastructure (such as, say, a stairway handrail), be considerate of others and also aware that building security employees sometimes remove bikes that seem hazardous.

While locking up, make sure your lock actually goes through your frame - rather than, say, around your seat post, where it can be conveniently slipped off. (You may laugh, but it happens.) Consider also what to do about the parts of the bike that aren't secured by your lock. If your wheels and seat are easy to remove, try running your lock through a wheel as well as your frame and securing the quick-releasable elements separately or taking them with you. Riding home on a bike with no seat is embarrassing, and riding on a bike with no wheels is impossible.

Some folks prefer to lock up out of sight, while others favor well-lit, well-trafficked spots on the premise that it's stressful to try and subtly saw through a lock in front of a teeming crowd of pedestrians. Either way, position your bike upright and out of the path of cars. I've seen an SUV sweep up onto a curb and right over the wheel of a Schwinn locked to a bike rack; the wheel issued a haunting cry as it folded.

If you think you can't afford a good lock, ask yourself: Can I afford to replace my bike?

Tips to Help Keep Your Bike in Your Own Hands

Lock Types: Choose Wisely

My childhood bike lock was a sparkly pink cable combination lock the thickness of a drinking straw. At some point, I realized it could be snipped in half with a pair of elementary school scissors. (The combination could also be inferred by the loud clicking sound that the correct numbers made.) Such locks are largely symbolic gestures. Flexible cable locks are easy to use and good for locking to difficult structures, but they often fall into this "easy to breach" category. In Amsterdam, I watched an enterprising gentleman whip out bolt cutters and chop my much sturdier cable lock in two casual strokes.

U-locks are stronger, but their shape and inflexibility limits what you can lock to. (Side note: Watch out for old 'Bic-able' U-locks, whose round keyholes can be breached with the butt end of a ballpoint pen.) My personal favorite lock is an ultra-thick, heavy chain. It makes you look paranoid, but it's very effective.

Locking Etiquette

Good locking manners are mostly intuitive. Don't lock your bike to someone else's (unless you know it's OK with them, and they can get a hold of you when they want to leave). Avoid jamming your bike up against someone else's in a crowded rack or bike pile. Make sure your bike isn't blocking (or tangled up with) other bikes. And finally, be gentle if you lock to a tree - don't trample vegetation or gouge bark. That's a living thing, friend - treat it with respect.

by Anne Mathews

September 30, 2011

Latest Comments

  • Lock through the triangle!

    While it makes intuitive sense to lock the rear wheel and the downtube, it's kind of unnecessary. As long as you put the lock around the rear wheel at some point inside the rear triangle, you should be fine.

    Posted by Angry Sam March 27, 2013 22:30:47

  • What part of Frame?

    When you secure your bike with the strongest lock to the saddle tube, be aware that it is suddenly easier to saw through the tube. By removing the saddle first, and reinserting it later, the thief conveniently stabilizes the damaged part of the frame.

    Re the Dutch lock, I have one, they are extremely convenient and actually quite hard to break, but obviously only secure your bike against riding away, not against carrying it away. So they are only good for the shortest of hops into the baker's or a café where the bike stays in sight. - Yes, you won't even leave your bike unlocked when it stays in sight, lest you think you can beat the thief riding your own bike...

    Posted by Thomas Arbs November 05, 2012 07:09:03

  • the 40 lb rule

    There's an old rule that your bike and lock together must weigh 40lbs. You got a swanky 20lb road bike - you need 20lbs of chain and ulock. You got a 38lb crapbike, you need a 2lb craplock. The main things to remember - ALL locks can be beaten given enough time and always lock your bike near a NICER bike.

    Posted by Jonathan Peterson October 31, 2012 07:26:03

  • dutch lock?

    Can anyone comment on the efficacy of the dutch lock? That's the one that's mounted on the back of the frame and slides through the rear wheel.

    Posted by Sue October 30, 2012 15:52:50

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